We will be closed this Saturday, July 2nd and Monday, July 4th for 4th of July Celebrations. We will resume normal business operation on Tuesday, July 5th. We apologize for the inconvenience and we thank you for your continued support!
We will be closed this Saturday, May 28th and Monday, May 30th for Memorial Day Weekend. We will resume normal business operation on Tuesday, May 31st. We apologize for the inconvenience and we thank you for your continued support!
Fixing Your Present Vehicle Saves Money
Most of us want to get the most for our motoring dollar. One of the best ways to do this is extending the life of your current vehicle. With new car prices in the United States averaging well over $10,000, money invested in keeping your existing vehicle in good shape could save you hundreds--even thousands--of dollars a year. When you consider the true cost of buying a new car (price of the car, sales tax, license and registration fees, insurance), it is not difficult to justify investing a few hundred dollars to repair your present vehicle.
Safety and Scheduled Maintenance
The safety aspect of properly maintaining your vehicle, especially when it has high mileage, should not be overlooked. Failing brakes, exhaust leaks and other problems can be prevented by following sound car care practices.
Unfortunately, most manufacturers only provide maintenance guidelines for the first 100,000 miles or so. Clear procedures for maintenance beyond this mileage do not exist. At best, manufacturers provide interval service schedules, such as every 15,000 miles. These schedules should be followed whenever possible. By doing so, you can reasonably expect thousands more satisfactory miles from your vehicle.
High Mileage Inspection and Evaluation
If your vehicle has passed the 100,000 mile mark and you want to significantly prolong its useful life, it is time to have it thoroughly evaluated by a professional automotive technician who can recommend needed repairs or service. This facility is equipped to perform this service. We employ technicians who use factory-level information detailing your vehicle's service requirements.
Our high mileage inspection and evaluation goes beyond cursory "once-overs" and is designed to get to the root of potential problems. Ask your service advisor or technician to show you exactly what is involved in this service. He or she will be happy to go over the evaluation form with you before you okay the inspection and provide you with a comprehensive estimate for any work recommended as a result of your vehicle's checkup. They will tell you about repairs that are necessary today, and also alert you to items that are potential problem areas you may want to address today for more trouble-free miles tomorrow. Naturally, you make the
decision as to what work is actually performed.
Working together, we can add years to the life of your car or truck.
The longevity of muffler and pipes depends on what kind of steel the components are made of, how pipes are routed under the car, where the muffler is located, and whether or not the vehicle has a catalytic converter.
Original equipment pipes made of aluminumized steel generally last five to seven years, except in areas with a lot of road salt and moisture. In these areas, pipes may need replacing after three to five years.
Original equipment pipes made of stainless steel (which are used from the converter forward on most cars and for the entire exhaust system on some) can last up to 10 years or more.
Most aftermarket pipes, by comparison, are made of ordinary steel which is good for about three to five years of service. Aluminumized and stainless pipes are better, but cost more.
With mufflers, stainless holds up the best, followed by doublesided galvanized steel. Single-sided galvanized and aluminumized hold up fairly well, while plain steel offers little or no corrosion resistance.
As a rule, the hotter a muffler runs the longer it lasts. Mufflers on vehicles with catalytic converters run hotter and last longer than those on older vehicles without converters. Mufflers located ahead of the rear axle last longer than those located aft of the rear axle.
Mufflers rust from the inside out. Rust is caused by moisture in the exhaust. Moisture condenses in the muffler when the engine is shut off and the muffler starts to cool. Some mufflers have a small pin hole that allows condensation to seep out.
One aftermarket muffler manufacturer puts a small packet of a special moisture absorbing chemical inside some of their mufflers to fight internal corrosion.
A muffler that needs replacing is an opportunity to sell clamps, pipes, hangers and any special tools that might be needed to complete the job.
A complete brake job should restore the vehicle's brake system and braking performance to good-as-new condition. There is no pat answer as to which items need replacing and which ones don't. It's a judgment call.
A complete brake job should begin with a thorough inspection of the entire brake system; lining condition, rotors and drums, calipers and wheel cylinders, brake hardware, hoses, lines, and master cylinder.
Any hoses that are found to be age cracked, chaffed, swollen, or leaking must be replaced. Make sure the replacement hose has the same type of end fittings (double-flared or ISO) as the original. Don't intermix fitting types.
Steel lines that are leaking, kinked, badly corroded, or damaged must also be replaced. For steel brake lines, use only approved steel tubing with double-flared or ISO flare ends.
A leaking caliper or wheel cylinder needs to be rebuilt or replaced. The same applies to a caliper that is frozen (look for uneven pad wear), damaged or badly corroded.
Leaks at the master cylinder or a brake pedal that gradually sinks to the floor tells you that the master cylinder needs replacing.
The rotors and drums need to be inspected for wear, heat cracks, warpage, or other damage. Unless they are in perfect condition, they should always be resurfaced before new linings are installed. If worn too thin, replace them.
Rust, heat, and age have a detrimental effect on many hardware components. It's a good idea to replace some of these parts when the brakes are relined. On disc brakes, new mounting pins and bushings are recommended for floating-style calipers. High temperature synthetic or silicone brake grease (never ordinary chassis grease) should be used to lubricate caliper pins and caliper contact points.
On drum brakes. shoe retaining clips and return springs should be replaced. Self-adjusters should be replaced if they are corroded or frozen. Use brake grease to lubricate self-adjusters and raised points on brake backing plates where shoes make contact.
Wheel bearings should be part of a complete brake job on most rear-wheel drive vehicles and some front-wheel drive cars. Unless bearings are sealed, they need to be cleaned, inspected, repacked with wheel bearing grease (new grease seals are a must), and properly adjusted.
As a rule, tapered roller bearings are not preloaded. Finger tight is usually recommended. Ball wheel bearings usually require pre-loading.
As a final step, old brake fluid should always be replaced with fresh fluid.
STAR Certified Smog Check & Repair
Oil & Filter Change
Wheel Alignment & Tires
Muffler & Exhaust System
Check Engine, ABS, Tire, & Air Bag Lights
Batteries, Starting, & Charging
Belts & Hoses
Steering & Suspension
Engine & Related Services
Transmissions & Related Services
Certified Automotive Technicians
Certified Automotive Repair Facility
STAR-Certified Test and Repair Station